Split is Croatia’s second city but it doesn’t feel like a runner-up. It’s built in and around a 1,700-year-old Roman palace, has a proper local life beyond tourism, and serves as the gateway to the Dalmatian islands. It’s also cheaper and less polished than Dubrovnik — in a good way.
Explore Diocletian’s Palace
This isn’t a museum — it’s a living neighbourhood. Emperor Diocletian built his retirement palace in 305 AD and people have lived inside it ever since. Walk through the basement halls (€8), see the Peristyle courtyard, climb the cathedral bell tower for rooftop views (€7). The narrow streets inside the walls are full of bars, shops, and small galleries. Free to wander, open 24 hours.
Hike Marjan hill
The forested peninsula west of the old town. A 20-minute uphill walk from the Riva gets you to the first viewpoint (Vidilica café — coffee with a view). Keep going for quieter trails, a small zoo, medieval chapels cut into the rock, and swimming spots on the south side. Allow 2–3 hours for the full loop.
Swim at Bačvice beach
Split’s main beach, a 10-minute walk east of the old town. It’s sandy (rare in Croatia), shallow, and packed with locals playing picigin — a traditional ball game in knee-deep water. Busy but fun. For something quieter, walk further along the coast to Ovčice or Firule.
Walk the Riva
Split’s seafront promenade is where everything happens. Morning coffee, evening strolls, people-watching. Lined with cafés under white umbrellas with the palace walls behind you and the harbour in front. Not cheap (coffee €3–4, beer €5–6) but it’s the city’s living room.
Visit the Green Market (Pazar)
Behind the palace’s east wall, the open-air market runs every morning. Fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, dried figs, lavender, and local olive oil. Prices are reasonable and it’s an authentic slice of local life. Great for picking up picnic supplies before heading to Marjan or the beach.
Cathedral of Saint Domnius
Originally Diocletian’s mausoleum, this is one of the oldest cathedral buildings in the world. The bell tower climb (€7) gives you panoramic views across the palace, the harbour, and Marjan. The crypt below is atmospheric. Allow 30 minutes.
Day trip to Trogir
A tiny medieval island town 30 minutes west of Split. UNESCO-listed old town with a stunning cathedral portal (carved by Master Radovan in 1240), narrow marble streets, and a fortress with views over the channel. Small enough to see in half a day. Easy to reach by bus, faster by private transfer.
Day trip to Hvar
The most famous Croatian island. Take a catamaran (1 hour) or private transfer to the port then ferry. Hvar Town has the nightlife and yacht scene, but the real charm is the lavender fields, hidden coves, and Stari Grad — one of the oldest towns in Europe.
Day trip to Mostar
Cross the border into Bosnia in 2.5 hours. Walk across Stari Most, eat €8 cevapi, and stop at Kravica Waterfalls on the way back. Better as a private transfer with scenic stops than a rushed group tour.
Where to eat
Split is more affordable than Dubrovnik. Budget €15–25/person for a good restaurant meal. The streets inside the palace walls have the atmosphere, but some are tourist traps. Look for places with a Croatian-only menu — that’s usually a good sign. Fresh fish is priced per kilo, so ask first.
How long to stay
One night works if you’re passing through. Two nights lets you do the palace, Marjan, a beach day, and the Riva. Three nights adds an island trip or a day in Trogir.
Getting there
Split connects to Dubrovnik (3.5h), Mostar (2.5h), and Zagreb (4h) by private transfer. Also the main ferry port for Hvar, Brač, and Vis.
Getting to Split
Private transfer with scenic stops along the way. Fixed prices, local drivers.
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